Tools Needed for Liner Kit System Installation

The only tool required from PIPES DOWN UNDER, LLC for liner kit system installation is our patented air pressure assembly for the pressurization of the liner itself. Costs for this patented assembly are included in the total price for the homeowner’s kit, and this air pressure assembly is capable of being used for all liner installations. It is comprised of a shutoff valve, NPT male and female connectors, and a low-pressure (0-30 psi) gauge. Each assembly allows you to connect the tail section of a liner directly to the female fitting that is attached to a compressor hose.

Requirements for Proper Liner Installation

A three-pound or larger compressor with an adjustable output pressure gauge is also needed, as well as duct tape to cover the poolside female pipe thread fitting from epoxy. It also holds the liner and sleeve in place within the pipe at the side of the pump while the epoxy cures. You will also need a pipe measuring system to fully measure the length of the pipe that will be repaired. This may consist of a flexible fish tape that is capable of passing through 90˚elbows, or a pig that is connected to a pig line that is to be sent through an existing pipe by using either water or air pressure.

We provide poly-bag pig and line kits for a low price of only $9.95 plus shipping and handling. Each kit includes a peanut-filled polyethylene bag with a 1/8-inch diameter nylon pig line that comes in lengths of 25 and 50 feet. Homemade poly-bags will also suffice, which can be made with a zip lock sandwich bag, foam packing peanuts, and a 1/8-inch nylon line. The line is transported through the pipe using water pressure or a wet/dry shop vacuum through the sucking of the pig inside of the existing empty pipe.

Installation Instructions for a Poly-Bag Pig

Once you’ve made sure that you have enough line to exit the existing pipe, you may insert two peanuts for a 1.5-inch ID black-poly (HDPE) pipe, three peanuts for a 1.5-inch I.D. PVC or flex pipe, or four peanuts for a 2-inch I.D. PVC or flex pipe into a zip lock sandwich bag. Then squeeze out most of the air that is inside the bag, and twist the neck while you tie the nylon cord at the twist. Recall that the liner must be at least one to two feet longer than the pipe that is to be repaired so that it can properly seal both ends of the pipe once the liner head and tail sections have been cut off.

INSTALLATION

DOWNLOAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
DOWNLOAD STEP BY STEP INSTALLATION CHECKLIST

First check that the overall length of the liner is at least one foot longer than the overall pipe length being repaired. (You will need at least six inches of liner to be exposed at the existing pipe exit point).

Before liner insertion: Make sure to “test fit,” the white retainer or gray encasement end-sleeves into the poolside fitting and the opposite stock pipe at the pump side. They should easily fit into both ends with some looseness. The white retainer sleeves are interchangeable for both fitting and stock pipe ends. The gray encasement sleeves are not interchangeable. The narrow gray sleeve is for the fitting-pool side while the larger diameter gray sleeve is for the cut stock pipe or pump side.

Stock Pipe Ends

Interchangeable Retainer Sleeves (White) inserted in a 1.5” stock pipe (top) & a 2” fitting (mid). The Gray Encasement ‘fitting sleeve’ being slipped into a 1.5” Black-Poly fitting screwed over a 1.0” liner (not shown).

– Cut to fit the length of the retainer or encasement sleeve with a hacksaw at the grooved markings, if needed, to make sure the liner is not squeezed or choked when installing (inserting) the sleeve when gluing into place. This will normally happen when there is an elbow within five inches of the stock pipe or fitting entry points.

Pipe Grooved Markings

– Rough sand the I.D. of the ‘pool side’ fitting and the ‘pump side’ stock pipe for cleanliness before liner insertion using the enclosed emery cloth.

LINER ENTRY POINTS:

General rules of entry:
– Insert the liner into the existing pipe where the most restrictive elbows are located.
– Insert the liner where the smaller ID section of pipe is located if the existing pipe is made up of two different diameters.
– For Skimmer repair- Enter the liner at the skimmer. For Main repair-Enter from pump side towards the pool bottom. For Pool wall return jet- Enter where most elbows are located. Either fitting or pump side.

BEFORE LINER INSERTION:

– Place the enclosed 2’x1.5’ plastic drop cloth between the ground and the pipe so no debris will enter the pipe. Small stones may jam during insertion of the liner due to the small clearance between the liner and the existing pipe I.D.

– The “tag line” connected to the head of the liner is to be uncoiled without being twisted. Lube the tag line with the yellow wax lubricant starting at the liner head. Lubricate the liner with the soap lubricant starting at the head towards the tail.

– Insert the tag line attached to the liner head through the existing pipe by either tying a pig directly to the tag line or pig line connected to the tag line. You can also tie the tag line to your fish tape to pull the tag line through the pipe.

– Before connecting the liner to your compressor, make sure your compressor outlet pressure gauge is reading zero and the air assembly valve is closed. Slowly pressurize the liner from 3 to 9 psi using the compressor regulator valve located on your compressor. You want the liner to be flexible enough to pass through elbows but also have enough stiffness to push through the existing pipe. You may need to increase the pressure up to 09 psi for more affective liner stiffness the longer the liner length is inserted.

Compressor Regulator Valve

Air pressure assembly

Pressure Assembly Connected to Liner

Pressure assembly connected to liner with shut-off valve in closed position

– Make sure the compressor is always powered so there is no pressure loss during installation.

– The tag line only helps guide the liner head around the pipe elbows. There are two liner heads installed. The internal pressurized bulkhead is located 2 & 1/2 inches back from the liner head. The tag line is anchored at the aft head and freely passes through the forward, exposed (white) liner head. You assist the liner around an elbow by using a pumping (caterpillar) action with slight tugs while always pushing at the tail end of the liner. DO NOT pull or tug the tag line by more than 15 pounds! Only slight tension or slight tugs during transit is necessary in the straight runs. Too much pulling tension on the line will ‘choke’ the liner from transiting through the fittings in the pipe.

– Pushing the liner is the proper Primary insertion method. Adjusting the liner pressure also assists in transporting the liner through the pipe if needed.

Tag Line Connected to the Two Internal Liner Heads

This picture shows the tag line connected to the two internal liner heads. The liner tail section is showing the ¼” NPT male plug to be connected to your compressor via the air pressure assembly.

– Make sure you have at least six inches of exposed liner at the exit point of the liner and four inches at the liner entry point at the liner tail section. Hold the 6” of liner head at the exit point before slowly releasing the air pressure from the liner. The liner will try to retract into the pipe while it seats itself during depressurizing.

– Cut off both heads at the liner head, making a clean straight cut exposing 3 inches of liner exiting the pipe in order to screw the end sleeve to the liner.

Interchangeable Retainer Sleeves

Notice how the Interchangeable Retainer Sleeves (White) are screwed into the 1.125” and 1.5” liners then inserted in the 1.5” stock pipe (top) & 2” pipe fitting (below). A large O.D. sized Encasement (Gray) Sleeve is screwed over a 1.0” liner before being slipped into a 1.5” Black-Poly stock pipe.

Female Pipe Threads

– Apply duct tape over the female pipe threads located in the poolside fitting before inserting the liner and/or applying epoxy.

– Clean off any residual soap lubricant from the liner and the pipe before sealing with epoxy.

– Always epoxy the fitting (pool) side first, lastly sealing the pump side.

– Install the encasement or retainer sleeve first. Then epoxy over both the sleeve and liner before inserting into main drain fitting. See following picture.

– By using a rubber expansion plug covered with the enclosed wax paper, push the liner with the attached encasement or retainer sleeve into the fitting so that the sleeve will bottom out inside the fitting. Tighten the plug to hold the liner and sleeve in place until the epoxy cures (45 min.).

– Add a slight amount of epoxy over the exposed three inches of the liner O.D. before screwing (counterclockwise) the encasement (gray) sleeve over the liner OR add a slight amount of epoxy over the retainer sleeve (white) male threads before screwing the sleeve all the way into the liner. Apply the rest of the epoxy over the total sleeve and exposed liner to seal the liner and sleeve inside of the existing pipe I.D. Push the sleeve and liner into the stock pipe and duct tape over the pipe and sleeve to hold the sleeve into place while curing.

Gray Encasement Sleeve

This photo shows a gray encasement sleeve being screwed over a 1.0” liner before gluing the encasement sleeve into the stock pipe (pump) side. Use only a slight coating of epoxy as a lubricant. Do not use too much epoxy as shown above. Too much epoxy will plug the encasement sleeve opening.

Encasement and Retainers Sleeves

This picture shows encasement and retainers sleeves sealing the liner into the stock pipe (pump) side. Use duct tape to hold the liner and sleeve into place by taping over the sleeve and pipe at the pump side while curing

Sealed Retainer Sleeve

Sealed Retainer sleeve inserted into a two inch stock pipe.

Warning Sticker: Apply the warning sticker on the pump-side connector fitting with the enclosed liner. Take some clear tape and cover the warning label in order to waterproof.

End of Installation!

STEP BY STEP CHECKLIST WHEN INSTALLING THE PDU LINER KIT SYSTEM

– First check that the overall length of the liner is at least one foot longer than the overall pipe length being repaired. (With at least six inches of liner to be exposed at the liner head exit point).

– Before liner insertion: Make sure to “test fit,” the white retainer or gray encasement end-sleeves into the poolside fitting and the opposite stock pipe at the pump side. They should easily fit into both ends with some looseness. The white retainer sleeves are interchangeable for both fitting and stock pipe ends. The gray encasement sleeves are not. The narrow gray sleeve is for the fitting-poolside while the larger diameter gray sleeve is for the cut stock pipe or pump side.

– Cut to fit the length of the retainer or encasement sleeve with a hacksaw at the grooved markings, if needed, to make sure the liner is not squeezed or choked when installing (inserting) the sleeve when gluing into place. This will normally happen when there is an elbow within five inches of the stock pipe or fitting entry points.

– Rough sand the I.D. of the ‘pool side’ fitting and the ‘pump side’ I.D. for cleanliness before liner insertion using the enclosed emery cloth.

– Liner Entry points: General rules of entry – Insert the liner into the existing pipe where the most restrictive elbows are located. Insert the liner where the smaller ID section of pipe is located if the existing pipe is made up of two different diameters. For Skimmer repair, enter the liner at the skimmer. For Main repair, enter from the pump side towards the pool bottom. For Pool wall return jet, enter where most elbows are located. Either fitting or pump side.

– Before liner insertion: The “tag line” connected to the head of the liner is to be uncoiled without being twisted. Lube the tag line with the yellow wax lubricant starting at the liner head. Lubricate the liner with the soap lubricant starting at the head towards the tail.

– Place the enclosed 2’x1. 5’ plastic drop cloth between the ground and the pipe so no debris will enter the pipe. Small stones may jam during insertion of the liner due to the small clearance between the liner and the existing pipe I.D.

– Insert the tag line of the liner head through the existing pipe by either tying a pig directly to the tag line or the pig line connected to the tag line. You can also tie the tag line to your fish tape to pull through the existing pipe.

– Always wear safety glasses when pressurizing and inserting the liner.

– Before pressurizing the liner, make sure your compressor outlet pressure gauge is reading zero and the air assembly valve is closed. Slowly pressurize the liner from 3 to 9 psi using the compressor regulator valve located on your compressor. You want the liner to be flexible enough to pass through elbows but also have enough stiffness to push through the existing pipe. You may need to increase the pressure up to 09 psi for more affective liner stiffness the longer the liner length is inserted.

– Make sure the compressor is always powered so there is no pressure loss during installation.

– The tag line only helps guide the liner head around the pipe elbows. There are two liner heads installed. The internal pressurized bulkhead is located 2 & 1/2 inches back from the liner head. The tag line is anchored at the aft head and freely passes through the forward, exposed (white) liner head. You assist the liner around an elbow by using a pumping (caterpillar) action with slight tugs while always pushing at the tail end of the liner. DO NOT pull or tug the tag line by more than 15 pounds! Only slight tension or slight tugs during transit is necessary in the straight runs. Too much pulling tension on the line will ‘choke’ the liner from transiting through the fittings in the pipe.

– Pushing the liner is the proper insertion method. Adjusting the liner pressure also assists in transporting the liner through the pipe if needed.

– Make sure you have at least six inches of exposed liner at the exit point of the liner and four inches at the liner entry point at the liner tail section. When exiting, hold the 6” of liner head at the exit point before slowly releasing the liner air pressure. The liner will try to retract into the pipe while it seats itself during depressurizing.

– Cut off both heads at the liner head, making a clean straight cut exposing 3 inches of liner exiting the pipe in order to screw the end sleeves to the liner.

– Apply duct tape over the female threads located in the poolside fitting before applying epoxy.

– Always seal, with epoxy, the fitting (pool) side first, lastly sealing the pump side.

– Clean off any residual soap lubricant from the liner with the alcohol packets and the pipe before sealing with epoxy.

– Add a slight amount of epoxy to 3” of the liner O.D. before screwing (counterclockwise) the encasement (gray) sleeve over the OD of the liner OR add a slight amount of epoxy over the retainer sleeve (white) male threads. Screw the sleeve all the way into the liner. Apply the rest of the epoxy over the total sleeve and exposed liner to seal the liner and sleeve inside of the existing pipe I.D.

– By using the rubber expansion plug covered with wax paper, push the liner with attached encasement or retainer sleeve into the fitting so that the sleeve will bottom out at the end of the fitting. Tighten the plug to hold the liner and sleeve in place until the epoxy cures (45 min.). Push the sleeve and liner into the stock pipe at the pump side and tape over the pipe to hold the sleeve into place while curing.

– Warning Sticker: Apply the warning sticker on the pump-side fitting. Take some clear tape and cover the warning label in order to waterproof the label.

Save time when you call us for help with your liner kit system installation. We look forward to helping your installation become as easy as possible.